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September 30, 2007

 

 

 

 

We awoke Saturday morning glad we had stayed in < namespace="" prefix="st1" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xml="true">Oyster Bay as the predicted winds did arrive during the night and we had a smooth night at anchor in spite of them.  If you click on ‘our position’ you will see how Oyster Bay probably received its name.  The circular hard-shelled bay holds vessels as safely as an oyster holds a pearl.

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Because the winds had cleared the air for a great view of NYC and also would give us a ‘lift’ on our next 55 nautical mile leg, we decided to leave.  With winds gusting to 26-28 miles we had a great 1 ½ hours sail at 7.3 knots down the end of Long Island Sound, toward the entrance to the East River.

 

Timing really is everything when navigating through the channels/rivers/sounds, but especially, we read, when transiting Hell Gate.  Converging currents and tidal flows can actually create standing waves and whirlpool eddies at this infamous spot which gives one little time to dodge the added hazard of heavy traffic when 5+ knots are added to the mix.  We needed to arrive at 12:28 P.M. (plus or minus 15 minutes) to gain the advantage of slack time between the tides.

 

Comically we almost sailed through Hell Gate and didn’t recognize it.  Where were the standing waves, the whirlpools, and the dangerously swift current?  All of our anticipation doused with this benign, ho-hum reality.  Then it dawned on us when we looked at our watches…we had arrived at 12:33 P.M.  (By the way, I credit all that postal service training I received in number-crunching to our on-time arrival.  Sort of like trying to plan the day so that all the letter carriers can make it back by 5:00 P.M.)

 

Our passage down East River turned into a whirlwind of a whole different drama…taking in NYC.  The huge bridges, skyscrapers, and landmarks such as the Empire State Building, The United Nations building, The Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, all the aircraft, and all the different vessels on the water kept our heads turning every which way.  We found it quite exhilarating and a bit overwhelming for this couple from Grand Junction.

 

After passing out of New York Harbor we anchored for the night at New Jersey’s Atlantic Highlands.  (Yes, we made it to another state.)  From the cockpit we watched the skyline of NYC become a twinkling of lights as the sun set and night arrived.  What a city.

   

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

       

 

 

 

September 28, 2007 

 

Cruising < namespace="" prefix="st1" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xml="true">New York On the Way To NYC< namespace="" prefix="o" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xml="true">

 

We anchored at the west end of Fisher Island just off the coast from Mystic, CT in preparation for crossing Long Island Sound bound for Port Jefferson, NY 58 nautical miles away.  Though the anchorage proved a bit rolly it felt worth it to get a bit of a jump off Mystic Harbor for the long leg ahead of us.

 

Cheryl figured the tides so we would have the current in our favor and we really needed it as the winds were against us. We left well before sunup feeling our way out of the anchorage in the dark. By the time the sun rose we were riding the tide just west of the Race. The Race gets its name from the strong tidal currents that flow through the restriction caused by Fisher Island filling Long Island Sound.

 

We had some rough spots in the middle of the passage as we crossed the strongest tide areas with an opposing wind causing some steep and very close together waves. KLOOSH was able to shoulder through but with some pounding evidenced by the geyser of salt water that erupted from the sink drain in the head. No damage but a salty mess to clean up.

 

The New York Ferry System is busy even this far from NYC so we are forewarned and know what they look like.

 

Anchoring at Port Jefferson  turned into a delight.  We did have a welcoming committee as we anchored near a bird sanctuary and watched the sun go down after a long day and a warm shower for the crew.

 

On September 27th we moved one step closer to NYC and anchored in Oyster Bay. And they really do ‘oyster’ here as this New Yorker was doing. He jokingly wanted $10 for taking his picture, $15 for an autographed copy.

 

Oyster Bay gave good shelter for increasing winds and rain showers on Thursday and Friday nights.  Actually the rain cleaned off Klooshs’ decks and helped to cool the air so we welcomed it.  Hope we are not moving south too quickly as the last two days brought 80 degree temperatures. 

 

 

 

September 24, 2007

 

 

Mystic, CT & Mystic Seaport< namespace="" prefix="o" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xml="true">

 

  

  

           

We sailed, motorsailed, and motored from < namespace="" prefix="st1" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xml="true">Newport, RI to Mystic, CT on September 23. A beautiful day with shifty winds, comfortable temperatures, and a very scenic coast line to gaze at as we slowly made our way west.  Since the winds were mild we decided to explore/experiment with the sailplan.  For the first time we sailed Kloosh with 3 sails, as we flew the mainsail, jib, and staysail.  

 

We had originally planned to anchor in Stonington, CT and then hike over to Mystic, but that all changed when Ellis & Linda Varcoe on S/V Warbonnet offered the use of their slip in Mystic while they are sailing the Maine coast.  An awesome offer – Thanks!

 

It was also a new experience for us coming into a slip with pilings instead of floating docks.  Maine has nine feet of tide Connecticut has 3 feet so there is a vast difference in how slips and docks are constructed.  There is also about 4 feet of water (Kloosh needs 6 feet 1 inch to float) about 50 feet from the slip, which made for a very tight turn getting into it.  It gave us both a very bad case of dry mouth that took copious amounts of cold liquid to satisfy after we were tied up safely with no damage to anyone or anything.  

 

Today we dinghied up the Mystic River to tour the Mystic Seaport, which is an authentic recreation of an 18th century New England seaport, complete with restored sailing ships, shops of the period, and abundant examples of how life along the coast and afloat was then.  The Mystic Seaport is now a shipyard and built the replica of the Armistad for the movie.  It truly was a time of wooden ships and iron men.

 

The Charles W Morgan is the last surviving whaling ship.  The Dutton is a fishing schooner. After seeing the Mayflower II in Plymouth and then these ships we are in awe of the resilience of our forefathers.

 

After looking at the pictures we took during our tour it seems we were too interested in the exhibits to take very many pictures, guess you will just have to go see this wonderful place for yourself.

 

 

As for us we want to stay just ahead of the falling leaves. The air today had that crisp quaility with a hint of cool that says fall is on the way. The migration south begins afresh tomorrow and we are bound for our next state - New York.

 

 

 

 

 

September 22, 2007

 

A Day in < namespace="" prefix="st1" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xml="true">Newport, RI < namespace="" prefix="o" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xml="true">

 

Meeting Jim McGuire through my work led us to a guided tour that exceeded all expectations. Jim picked Cheryl & I up this morning and proceeded to show us what we would have not been able to see without his connections.  Although Jim is a college professor he is also a retired US Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer and sailor with 50 years experience.  He also tells a good story and provided much local knowledge while graciously driving us around Newport.

 

We started with a tour of the many mansions that were built by the ‘Old Money’ people around the turn of the century a century ago. Newport has been the summer playground of the Astors, Vanderbilts, and many other of like financial means.

 

Next we were surprised to get a tour of the US Coast Guard Base followed by a tour of the US Navy Base on Goat Island.  The Naval War College is located here and this is the first US Naval Base.

 

 

We were able to tour the Naval Warfare Museum that is no longer open to the public due to its being located on a secured base. Submarine and torpedo warfare was developed here so there were many of the first torpedoes and models of submarines. There were also many fabulous models of famous sailing vessels including Americas Cup competitors, British Ships of the Line, and some of America’s first battleships.

 

We then went to the Coast Guard portion of the Navy Base where Jim worked while on duty. There we saw many reconditioned navigational aides, the massive chain that holds them, and the ‘sinkers’ or concrete blocks that they are tied to.  Also located here are the mothballed aircraft carriers USS Saratoga & Forestall.   

 

We ended at the Newport Shipyard, another place which took Jim’s connections to gain access. There goes the watercraft of the truly wealthy for any repairs or dockage. The yacht that started the America’s Cup races here in Newport was there along with a 12 meter hull. (note the forward rudder). The schooner Massachusetts is a replica of the one built in 1894.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Jim for a wonderful day.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

September 21, 2007

 

 

Sailing is not always about freedom.  When leaving < namespace="" prefix="st1" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xml="true">Plymouth for the next leg of our trip we had to take into consideration the timetable of the Cape Cod Canal (CCC) flood and ebb flows.  Weather, tide, and currant always take a role in decision making for passages.  They are the eventual masters in the end.

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We left in the fog and slight rain at 10:30 A.M., much later than our usual preference, to correctly time our 22 mile trip to the CCC with its ebb flow.  The currents can run 5 knots in the canal when the tidal surge is at its maximum, so one definitely wants to have that force working with and not against the course of the vessel.  Another interesting fact, the tide level fluctuates about 9 feet in the Cape Cod entrance at the eastern end and only 4 feet at the Buzzards Bay entrance at the western end.  Gone are the 9 to 12 foot tides that we experienced while sailing up north in Maine.  The trip through the man made canal provides an excellent short cut to having round Cape Cod.  This was the third cape to leave in our wake.  Capes Elizabeth, Ann and Cod are now behind us.

 

 After exiting the CCC we anchored in the beautiful and still anchorage of Onset, MA.  However, the next morning we left early at its most quiet time…for we had places to go…Buzzards Bay.  She has potential to be as mean and ugly as her name with water drafts of only 20-30 feet.  In the wrong wind and tide combination she can provide short, choppy, boisterous waves.  Luckily for us the opposing winds were mild and we motored almost completely through before the waves started building and throwing spray over the dodger as KLOOSH shouldered her way southwestward.   The last few hours gave us just a taste of why this body of water was named Buzzard and not Canary.

      

 

 

Arriving in Newport, RI, which many consider as the yachting center of New England, was a welcomed relief.  As we turned into the entrance we saw a full spectrum of boats, from classic runabouts, to the high-tech sailing machines that are similar to the ones that compete in America’s Cup regattas. 

 

While here we took a short walk to The Museum of Yachting, several dinghy rides to the downtown wharf and just generally relaxed on KLOOSH enjoying the sights of boats entering and exiting the small harbor.  Oh, and John took the opportunity to try out the boson chair Cheryl gave him for Christmas to work on one of the spreaders.  We plan on staying here for a few days before continuing on.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

September 18, 2007

 

 

 

What a great two days we had in < namespace="" prefix="st1" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xml="true">Gloucester visiting with Andrew, previous owner of Kloosh, and Phyllis.  We took a leisurely day sail with Andrew out of historic Gloucester on Sunday.  The weather was beautiful with just enough wind to make the sailing enjoyable.  Andrew knows KLOOSH so well it is always great to have him aboard. We are like a couple of sponges absorbing the wisdom of his experience.

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Monday did roll around and we shoved off for our next port of call, southward across Massachusetts Bay, leaving Boston slowly sinking below the horizon to starboard.  Early in the day we had very little wind so decided to trade the diesel we were using to move the boat for some fresh water. We cranked up the watermaker for a couple of hours and topped off all our fresh water tanks (about 40 gallons worth) with pure reverse osmosis (RO) water.  It is an amazing thing turning the saltwater of the ocean into drinking water that contains no chlorine and tastes better than most municipal water.  Oh yeah, and the other wonderful thing – hot showers for the crew tonight!

 

Around noon the wind piped up to the high teens, with gusts to 20+, and we shut down all mechanical systems and set the sails.  With the NE wind on our port aft quarter we had a smooth and 6+ knot ride.  Very nice!

 

We pulled into Plymouth harbor and secured a mooring (on our first attempt we might add!) only 100 yards from the Mayflower II. We tidied up the boat and went ashore via the Plymouth Yacht Club launch for a walk around the city where America all began. Most of the attractions were closed for the night but the aura of the area was there giving a feeling of walking in the shoes of history.

 

Tuesday morning we did the tourist two-step and toured the Mayflower II, an exact replica of the original Mayflower.  We found it hard to imagine 102 people aboard the small, rustic built vessel and both decided we have it pretty good on KLOOSH.  We walked through the area of the first settlement on the way back from the grocery store.  It is somewhat intriguing to walk by houses that have stood for hundreds of years…who else has trod on this sidewalk?

 

Mid-day we dropped the mooring and motored out to Clarks Island, the place the Pilgrims spent their first night before their landing in Plymouth that cold November day almost 400 years ago.   So, here we lay anchored in a very beautiful, tranquil area just west of Clarks Island getting ready for a departure for our transit of the Cape Cod Canal tomorrow.

 

 

 

September 15, 2007

 

The weather waits for no man - or small sailboat. Seasonal changes are apparent with a touch of fall in the air as well as on the water.  So, our much anticipated migration south along the Eastern Seaboard has finally started.

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The car sold Monday, the anchor arrived Wednesday, the boat was ready and a weather window all came together so we left on Thursday, two days before our target date of Sept. 15th.  With the help from dock neighbors we made a few last trips into town for final provisioning.    

 

Wednesday night, Doug and Charlotte on Abbotsford II dinghied over for a short visit and shared a sundowner and hors d’oeuvers with us on Kloosh.  It turned into the final < namespace="" prefix="st1" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xml="true">Portland sunset viewing for all of us as they also plan on leaving tomorrow for places south.   

 

Much Thanks go to Mark & Julia on Makara for all their help, the good time at lunch at Bull Feeney’s, and the transportation assistance. We also thank them for the farewell gift which enabled us a few toasts once we reached the Isle for Shoals Thursday night.

 

 

 

 

      Our first day was spent motoring across a glassy sea, a beautiful day, but no wind.  We made good time and found a secure mooring in a snug harbor at Isles of Shoals.  The Isles of Shoals, situated 6 miles off the coast line has a long and fascinating history for such a small place.  Some others who have shared this anchorage include Capt. John Smith in 1614, pirates Capt. Kidd and Edward Teach (AKA Blackbeard) in 1720.  Years after that a resident of one of the islands found under a flat rock pirate treasure they had left behind.  The boundary between Maine and New Hampshire runs through the middle of the harbor we moored in so depending on the swing of the boat we made it out of Maine the first day!

 

 

 

 

Our second day we made Gloucester, MA and tied up to Andrew's, the previous owner, private dock.  We had a great visit and then ate dinner on KLOOSH with Andrew and Phyllis and spent the evening talking about KLOOSH and past destinations they have sailed her to.  We are going to spend the next couple of days here in Gloucester waiting for a front to pass and then we are bound for Plymouth, MA.

 

As an aside, after motorsailing, due to no winds, for 20 miles along the New Hampshire and Massachusetts coastline we rounded Cape Ann.  At that point the wind freshened to 10-15 knots with gusts to 20 on our port beam, so we cut the motor and set the sails.  What a thrill to get in 7 ½ miles of true sailing.  In the far distance we could now see the skyscrapers of Boston Harbor and there was a part of me that thought about staying the course and not turning into Gloucester.  It would have made for such a nice run.

      

John is reading Nathaniel Philbrick’s  book Mayflower.  Cheryl is reading Jeff Shaara’s book The Glorious Cause. There is so much history here on the east coast...the birthplace of America.  Learning about it and seeing it at the same time has turned into a memorable opportunity for us.

 

More later as our migration continues…

 

 

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